Hair Structure & Porosity of the Lashes

The importance of knowing the structure and porosity of your lashes and brows for the optimal outcome.

Do you frequently struggle with lash lift timing? How many times have you questioned whether the exposure time is too long or not long enough?

As it involves a chemical reaction, you must ensure that the timing is correct for the best results!

Today, let's clear up some misconceptions about this subject. To understand how the chemical reactions of the perm or dye occur, two major factors must be observed:

1. Hair porosity

2. Hair structure

What is HAIR POROSITY and how to identify it?

Hair porosity refers to the ability of your hair to absorb and retain moisture. The porosity of your hair is determined by the condition of the cuticle, which is the outer layer of your hair. If your cuticles are tightly packed or closed, your hair is less porous, and it is difficult for moisture/solutions to penetrate the hair shaft. On the other hand, if your cuticles are lifted or open, your hair is more porous, and it can easily absorb and lose moisture and solutions. The porosity of the hair determines its shine or dullness. To establish which group the hair you are treating belongs in, you must examine the cuticle. Without a microscope, it won’t be easy, so you will have to rely on absorbency.

Here's what happens depending on the type of hair:

Low Porosity (low absorption capacity)

The "flakes" or openings of the cuticle

(think of them like tiles on a rooftop) adhere very well, and the hair is very shiny, similar

to hair in advertisements. Due to the difficulties of chemical substances penetrating into the hair openings, the times will need to be increased for both perms and tints!

Medium Porosity (majority of the hair)

When the cuticle scales are slightly raised and thin, or the cuticle layers are few due to a specific ethnicity. These are generally very obedient (easy to handle).

Large Porosity (high absorbency capacity)

This occurs when the cuticle scales are raised, (weak) or breathable. This does not allow humidity to remain for long, so the hair attempts to absorb as much as possible at all times. This hair is visibly fragile and dull (usually damaged or treated hair), but remember that even a large portion of curly hair has high porosity! You will notice that this hair literally “eats” the solution during perm absorption (Form 1). (Form 1 will go from intense white to transparent milky white on these hairs.)

To Summarize:

• Low Porosity = shiny hair (strong, closed cuticle) = leave the product on for longer

• High Porosity = matte hair (weak, fragile cuticle) = leave on for less time because substances are quickly absorbed

Hair Structure and why it makes a difference!

Starting from the porosity, we can also analyze the elasticity because they depend on each other. In fact, the ability to retain moisture ensures the elasticity of keratin, particularly at the hairline. We divide the cases into three categories:

Soft Hair - This type is often very obedient when applied to the shield during lash filler procedures, or the hairs brush into place easily during brow bomber lamination, but it can also be rebellious: in some cases, the hair is so soft and obedient that it creates "waves" that are difficult to straighten. When the first (permanent) solution is in place, these hairs rarely 'pop off' the shield and sometimes do not require Mister Fix Brow Lamination adhesive to mould into the desired shape.

Medium hair - is an obedient type of hair that easily lays down on the shield and usually falls within the medium porosity range. Some hairs may 'pop off' during the laying time of the first solution. In these cases, they must be repositioned using the "cobweb" method.

Rigid hair (wirey or stiff coat) - is resistant to the "crease on the shield" and requires a lot of glue to keep it in place. We often call it "vitreous" (as if it were made of glass) because it can have low porosity and thus be very shiny. Many will 'pop off' during Form 1's setting time if you don't use enough glue.

REMEMBER: it is not about the diameter of the hair: very fine hairs can be stiff, while thick hairs can be soft.

Timing For InLei® FORM 1 (lash filler):

Here is a table with the recommended exposure times; as you can see, it was created in considering both factors we have gone over: porosity and structure of the hair. Remember that there are always exceptions!

Exceptions to the Rules

Hair that is quite fine but not porous

Although it appears to have a soft structure, it is actually medium-stiff to the touch. The average time ranges from 10 to 14 minutes. If you had only used visual analysis, you would have chosen 6 minutes!

Redhead’s Rigid & Soft

Many redhead girls' hair has a low absorption capacity (in the photo an Italian model). The laying time increases by one minute in the presence of both a soft and a rigid structure when compared to the table.

Soft but Rebellious

The structure of hair appears soft to the touch and to the eye, but it is extremely rebellious while attaching to the shield. In the light of the lamp, you can see a "glass effect," and the surface is quite shiny (well-closed cuticles).

You would have probably chosen the times for a medium structure and porosity (9 min), but the hair is actually medium-stiff / stiff with low porosity. 13 minutes on average.

Return Clients

You MUST also consider returning clients' lashes. They will be stronger and more lustrous after each InLei® Lash Filler Treatment (cuticles will be closed more). As a result, the perming solution will take longer to penetrate the cuticle than it did previously. We always recommend analyzing each client's lashes prior to treatment and creating a client card to keep track of previous appointments.

PERFECT YOUR TECHNIQUE AND BECOME A PROFESSIONAL LASH FILLER ARTIST!

Nowadays, being the "trusted operator," the one who makes the difference, is everything! To gain popularity in the eyelash industry, it is necessary to work with precision and a high level of competence: the client immediately notices the difference between a mediocre treatment and one performed in a skillfully crafted manner, just as she notices the difference between those who know the industry inside and out.

Furthermore, technical and/or chemical deficiencies pose a significant risk! If an eyelash perm is performed incorrectly, it can pose a number of risks. For example, incorrect timing can burn the client's eyelashes, just as inadequate product use can cause severe eye irritation.

Why take the chance? If you want to be a successful lash artist, we recommend taking the Lash Filler course in one of our training academies across Canada! More information can be found on the website.