S-POWDER: Korean lash lift using InLei® Lash Filler products
Are you looking for a complete protocol to perform Korean lamination with the products you already have? If you use the InLei® Lash Filler 25.9 line, you've come to the right place.
Korean lash lamination (also known as Korean lash lift) is a technique that differs from classic lamination in the way lashes are worked and positioned. The good news is that you don't need to buy a new product line: we have tested the compatibility of InLei® products with this technique for over a year, achieving excellent results on all hair types.
Before starting, we recommend reading our article on the differences between cysteamine and ammonium thioglycolate in Korean lamination, where we explain why both active ingredients can be used successfully.
Below is the complete 10-step working protocol.
1. PREPARE THE LASHES
Thoroughly clean the lashes with InLei® Saline Pre-treatment and block the lower lashes with a suitable silicone patch like InLei® Black Pad. It is essential to use a silicone pad (and not disposable ones) to protect the skin, thus preventing the solutions used from coming into contact with the skin.
2. APPLY FORM 1
Two methods are available for this step of Korean lamination:
METHOD 1 (glueless)
Apply InLei® Lash Form 1 gently pressing the lashes onto the black pad, making sure to cover the surface evenly and leaving 1mm distance from the eyelid.
For thicker and curlier hair, you can add 10-20% of InLei® S-Powder.
Note: When the lashes are resting on the eye pad, the processing time increases compared to when they are stretched on the shield. On the shield, the hair is subjected to slight tension that makes it easier for solutions to penetrate through. On the pad, however, it is in its natural position and absorbs more slowly. The processing time in this case can be up to 10-20 minutes.
METHOD 2 (korean)
Apply InLei® Lash Form 1 mixed with 10-20% of InLei® S-Powder and pull the lashes back onto a flat shield (natural) or a silicone patch like InLei® Black Pad.
3. REMOVE THE PRODUCT FROM THE TIPS
Within a maximum of 5 minutes from the start of application (depending on the hair structure), remove the product from the tips with the help of a brush. Then go over the entire tip area with an InLei® Softies moistened with InLei® Saline Pre-Treatment. See the in-depth explanation on tips at the end of the article.
4. CHECK THE HAIR READINESS: lash check
With the help of a microbrush, check the condition of the hair: if it is malleable, then the product can be removed with a dry brush.
Note: Unlike the classic technique where we usually set a timer, to monitor the processing time in Korean lamination, a stopwatch is started and the condition of the hair is checked from time to time. It is important to stop the process at the correct moment to obtain an optimal result: the lashes must be malleable and obedient but not completely lacking structure.
5. PREPARE FIX 2 WITH S-POWDER
Mix 30% of InLei® S-Powder thickening powder with 70% of InLei® Lash Fix 2 fixing solution. The mixture should be soft and lump-free, not powdery.
6. POSITION THE LASH SHIELD
Position the rod on the eyelid, maintaining 1mm distance from the root.
Stretch the lashes directly onto the shield using the Fix 2 + S-Powder mixture. At this point, the lashes should be very obedient and will wrap to the shield easily. The most suitable tools are the InLei® Helper comb, the InLei® Tiziano brush and some microfibre-tipped brushes like InLei® Softies. It is important to use them with extreme delicacy as the hair is very fragile at this stage.
Position InLei® Lash Stopper and leave on for half the time of the first solution.
Note: When positioning the lashes on the rod, remember to ensure there is enough product, otherwise the lashes will remain glued thanks to the gelling action of the powder, but the curvature fixing function will not be activated. If necessary, add more InLei® Lash Fix 2 (with or without powder).
⮕ From this point onwards, proceed as in the classic Lash Filler 25.9 protocol
7. PREPARE THE TINT
Mix the desired color with InLei® Developer Cream 1.5% 5 vol. in a 1:1 ratio until a creamy consistency is obtained. Apply from root to tip with a brush like InLei® Vincent. Leave on for 6 to 12 minutes depending on the hair structure and remove with the help of a brush.
8. APPLY NOURISHMENT
Apply InLei® Lash Filler 3 with quick movements using a flat brush like InLei® Picasso and wait a few minutes for it to penetrate until fully absorbed.
9. PERFORM FINAL CLEANSE
Fill the InLei® Barolo bowl with water and dispense a pea-sized amount of InLei® Mousse Magica professional shampoo into a small bowl like InLei® Solo. Wet the InLei® Fernando brush and use it to pick up a small amount of mousse. Meticulously clean any residue until the rod is removed. Rinse the area.
Note: To achieve the correct mousse consistency, it is recommended to shake the bottle and turn it upsidedown during dispensing.
10. APPLY MOLECULAR 4
Spread the molecular reconstruction InLei® Lash Molecular 4 over all lashes using an InLei® F-brush microbrush and comb until fully absorbed. No rinsing required.
And there you have it! A guaranteed amazing result. Don't forget a before-and-after photo to post on Instagram to show everyone the magic! Tag @inlei_canada to show us the beauty you create.
Korean Lamination with InLei®: How to manage tips and roots
For many, this will be a sensitive point, but here too, as with the classic technique, it is essential to pay attention to the ends of the lashes to avoid compromising the work.
Roots of lashes:
Even in Korean lash lamination, you must NEVER come into contact with the skin. Whether using a cysteamine-based or ammonium thioglycolate-based product, these are strongly alkaline solutions. Always leave at least 1mm distance as these components are potentially irritating to the skin: touching it or working too close to the skin would exponentially increase the risk of irritation or allergic reactions. This is an absolutely indispensable precaution to protect the client's lashes and eye health.
Tips of Lashes:
Have you ever heard of the "tip rule"? We also use it in the classic technique, and it consists of avoiding applying the product directly to the tips of the lashes. In the Lash Filler 25.9 treatment, we usually extend the product already present during the last 3-4 minutes of processing time, so that it reaches the tips safely and in a controlled manner.
When working with the Korean technique, we have to apply the product to the entire length of the hair from the very beginning (as the lashes are laid out on the patch, it's almost impossible to exclude them from the start), so we proceed as follows: after 1-4 minutes of processing time, we remove the product from the tips with InLei® Saline Pre-treatment. This intervention does not interrupt the process; it simply slows it down. Being a particularly delicate area, this is a necessary step to avoid burning.
Now you have all the necessary knowledge for a perfectly executed job, it's your time. Experimentation is the key to improvement!